The London Fashion Week 2019, organised by The British Fashion Council (BFC), carried out a program of more than 66 brands, 74 stores and 170 events between 13-17 September. We look closely at the latest collections of London-based Turkish designers.
Sustainable design was the highlight of this year’s fashion week… The collection of the Vin + Omi brand consisted of recycled materials. During the fashion show, some of the fabrics shown were made from stinging nettles, obtained from the garden of Prince Charles, who supported the project. During the Fashion Week, climate activists from the Extinction Rebellion movement, staged a protest outside the building against the fashion industry’s massive carbon release. The protesters targeted Victoria Beckham’s show in particular.
The eagerly awaited designers of London Fashion Week featured three young designers, who originated from Turkey. We took a close look at the fashion shows and collections of Bora Aksu, Dilara Fındıkoğlu and Erdem Moralıoğlu, who continued their works in London, and created unique designs at a young age. The London Fashion Week 2019
Bora Aksu dedicated his Spring-Summer 2020 Collection to the famous Princess Taj Saltaneh, from the Qajar Dynasty, along with Frida Kahlo and the painter, Maria Berrio. The London Fashion Week 2019
Taj Saltaneh, the famous princess of the Qajar Dynasty, near the Iranian border, was also known as a feminist and a pioneer of women’s rights, despite becoming a princess in the early 20th century. One of the founders of the Women’s Freedom Organization, Taj was secretly organising women’s groups. In addition to her walk to the Parliament building, she is also known as the first woman to remove her veil and wear European clothes. Criticising the monarchy that her father exercised, at every opportunity, Taj thought that many problems, including poverty, women’s rights and education, were created by the monarchy. At that time, she was known as the only female voice for change and democracy.
Bora Aksu says that Taj’s journey, from young princess to activist, is a source of inspiration for this collection. In addition to Taj, Frida and Maria, who live in different locations, for different periods, are part of the inspiration.
The colours and collages that Colombian painter Maria Berrio used in her paintings, refer to the colour palette of Bora Aksu’s Spring-Summer 2020 collection. Dark red, dark blue and navy blue tones, turquoise, pastel blue and pink are all used together.
Defined as a romantic, courtly and courageous collection, Aksu’s Spring-Summer 2020 Collection consists of silk organza, broker, silk habotai, chiffon and cotton textures. Romantic and nostalgic silhouettes appear on the dresses, while separate pieces, such as jackets and skirts give an air of modernism and sophistication.
Bora Aksu, who graduated from Central Saint Martins School in 2003, with outstanding grades, has been awarded the New Generation award of the British Fashion Council four times, and is now on the way to becoming a world brand, with 38 stores in the major capitals of the world.
Dilara Findikoglu, who organised a guerrilla style fashion show in the school yard, to protest the end of the fashion show at the Central Saint Martins graduation three years ago, has been creating non-stop. The young designer who dresses many names from Tilda Swinton to Madonna, uses fabrics and accessories from Turkey, as well as motifs related Turkish culture. She carries out some of her production in Turkey. The London Fashion Week 2019
Inspired by subcultures, feminism, religious symbols and current political issues in her designs, Fındıkoğlu’s Spring 2020 collection at LFW had the theme of imminent climate crisis.
Fındıkoğlu, who produces 75 percent of the clothes from recycled and sustainable materials, stated that she utilises the fabric dyeing techniques and craftsmanship of women’s collectives in Turkey, in the process of creating some her designs. Dilara Fındıkoğlu’s collection and were presented to fashion lovers, with a theme of respect for mother nature, and an awareness of the future climate crisis.
Erdem Moralıoğlu, a name of the British and world fashion scene with his Erdem brand, has won many awards in the field of fashion. The Canadian-Turkish fashion designer’s fashion show at LFW was a parade, where the floral patterns he always uses meet eye-catching colours, sometimes in tight suits and sometimes in large dresses. The London Fashion Week 2019
Moralıoğlu, who dresses Kate Middleton, as well as many well-known names, such as Michelle Obama, and Kate Winslet, is known as a designer who appeals to people of all ages, using floral patterns and handmade embroidery.
Erdem Moralıoğlu’s Spring 2020 ready-to-wear collection was dedicated to photographer Tina Modotti. Modotti, who was both a photographer, and a figure in politics, during the rebellions of Mexico and Spain, is known for both documentary photographs and Frida Kahlo portraits and still-lifes from this period.
Every piece in this collection of Erdem Moralıoğlu, according to his own words, presented sections of the life of this principled, revolutionary and romantic woman. The designer says that while living in Mexico, he lived in architect Luis Barragán’s home and studio, and was inspired by the colours there, while preparing his collection.